Precision Japanese techniques and revolutionary cocktail techniques by well established mixologists are employed to create the finest drinks for their guests.
THE BACKDROP
Revolutionary Cocktail-Making
The menu at The Backdrop (a small hidden bar at VOCO Hotel) is dedicated to the extraction of botanicals, and showcases the techniques discovered and perfected from the 1800s until today.
Visionary mixologist-owner Dario Knox recently unveiled a ground-breaking cocktail-making technique for his “Percolated Cocktails”. According to him, this revolutionary technique redefines the art of cocktail crafting.
Percolated Cocktails mark a paradigm shift away from the conventional tools and methods that have been used in bartending for over three centuries. Shakers, mixing glasses, ice, and barspoons are no longer needed in Dario’s new world. Instead, he extracts and isolates the essence of botanicals directly into each creation – such as the Percolated Espresso Martini made with neutral overproof spirit, angelica, coffee and vanilla, or the Percolated Sidecar, which features neutral spirit with citrus.
At the core of his progressive technique lies the use of a single ingredient: neutral spirit. The transformation of neutral spirit during this process is remarkable. As the spirit is carefully brought down to the desired alcohol by volume (ABV), the magic unfolds. The pure essence of botanicals is meticulously extracted through a percolation process, elevating the liquid to new heights of complexity and flavour.
“In 2013 I started getting interested in the making of alcohol products like Campari, Aperol and Chartreuse. I understand the flavours but I was trying to figure out how they are made. This curiosity led to the intention of creating something like my own product,” says Dario.
He adds, “In 2018, I started to truly dig deeper and get onto the next level. Besides researching and collecting manuscripts and manuals, I went back to Italy to learn about Italian liquoristica (loosely translated, it means the art of making liqueurs). I was trying to collect all the botanicals and understand what to do with them. By 2019, I had a lot of extractions in my lab and my home. The idea of percolating cocktails came up around that time.”
Thanks to his massive collection of extractions and botanicals, Dario decided to incorporate his knowledge on how to make products and drinks. “So that’s kind of my lightbulb moment and I decided to explore [the technique] further,” he shares.
Dario describes the process as “a symphony of science and craftmanship”. He explains, “By percolating botanical extractions into the neutral spirit, we achieve a level of purity and complexity that was previously unattainable. The resulting drinks are not only spirit-driven but also remarkably clean, offering an experience that is both familiar and novel.”
BAR KAKURE
Japanese Precision and Seasonality
For Japanese cocktail making, there are essential techniques and processes required to derive harmonious flavours in drinks.
Kazuhiro Chii, head bartender of Bar Kakure at Scotts Road believes that in terms of technique, it’s crucial to delve deeply into the ‘why’ behind each action. “This includes the way of shaking, stirring, handling the measuring cup, holding the ice tongs, and the angle of your arm when opening the bottle cap, among others. Similar to the practice of tea ceremony or martial arts, paying attention to each movement from fingertips to toes, ensuring none are wasted, results in a practice that is both efficient and aesthetically pleasing, which in turn is reflected in the taste,” he explains.
To create harmonious beverages, it’s essential to have a solid understanding of the basics. “In the world of cocktails, there are what we call classic cocktails, which have been passed down from the 19th century to the present day. By deconstructing and deciphering these classics, certain patterns emerge, which I then use as a foundation for construction. This approach not only pays homage to the tradition but also allows for innovation within the realm of cocktail making.”
Another important element in Japanese cocktail culture is seasonal-driven drinks or using ingredients at their peak. Kazuhiro explains that within seasonality, there are further nuances like hashiri (early season), sakari (peak season), and nagori (end of season), each representing different stages of taste.
For cocktail culture, which is originally Western, seasonality is not a primary focus. Kazuhiro notes: “Incorporating seasonal ingredients to evoke the essence of each season is a unique aspect of Japanese cocktail culture. However, there seems to be a shift towards fancy, visually appealing creations, leading to a westernisation of the original culture. This shift may reduce the emphasis on seasonal awareness and the enjoyment of Japanese aesthetics and sentimentality that comes with it.”
As for bar tools, Kazuhiro uses the most basic ones without special equipment like centrifuges or liquid nitrogen. “However, I carefully select even these basic tools for their quality and functionality. For instance, the shaker is made of nickel silver, which has a noble shine not found in stainless steel. I appreciate its weight, the soft resistance of ice unlike stainless steel, and the sound it makes when shaken,” he points out.
He continues, “For the bar spoon. I prefer ones that are straight without any twists for a beautiful rotation appearance, and I use ones that are longer than standard. The measuring cup is chosen for their heavier weight to prevent tipping over more than the standard ones, and for their beautiful silhouette. For the mixing glass, I use ones engraved with the beautiful Japanese traditional craft of Edo Kiriko patterns. It’s a piece that adds elegance to the counter. And the petty knife is a must-have for any Japanese bartender. I use one that has been re-sharpened to a single edge to ensure the cut surfaces of fruits are beautifully finished.”
Kazuhiro reiterates that the technique that he has consciously focuses on over the years is understanding the reason behind each action such as shaking or stirring, and how this affects the drink. “This exploration into the purpose behind each technique allows us to see the physical methods of shaking or stirring in a new light. Without a deep understanding of these basics, even the latest technology can result in creations that are merely superficially fancy, appealing to the eye but lacking depth, essentially becoming just a showy, cheap trick,” he says.
Ultimately, it’s about how Kazuhiro’s consciousness (thoughts and intentions) is reflected in the cocktails he creates. “Human consciousness exists as vibrations that can be imprinted onto substances, and liquids are particularly receptive to these vibrations. Therefore, when I shake or stir, I’m always mindful of how my wish for the drink to be enjoyable is imprinted into the liquid and conveyed to the customer. This principle is akin to why a meal prepared by a mother tastes better than one from a convenience store; it’s the intention of making something for someone that gets imprinted into the food.”