Dedicated smallholder farmers and ardent craft chocolatiers are giving Asian cacao beans – a crop once held in low regard – their well-deserved time in the sun.
Almost all good things in the world require time and effort, and chocolate – bittersweet, complex, velvety, fudgy chocolate – is no exception. The confection is the result of weeks of labour and expertise exercised over manifold steps, creating a sweet adored for centuries from its inimitable and utterly humble base ingredient, the cacao bean.
Its irreplaceability, much like a grape in a highly regarded wine, lies in the bean’s provenance and terroir. Most people agree that the best cacao beans come from South America, where the cacao tree is native to; as well as West Africa – the Ivory Coast, Ghana, and the like – the other global hub of cacao production post-colonisation era.
But it might surprise you to know that cacao trees aren’t only found in Peru and Brazil – they can also be grown in places like Pahang, Malaysia, and Ba Ria in Southeast Vietnam. Likewise, the beans harvested from these trees can be turned into chocolate, if given the proper attention. Unfortunately, the general perception of Asian cacao has been poor. It is seen as a low-value commodity – and treated as such, often being handled and fermented haphazardly, leading to less-than-ideal flavours and off-odours.
Times Are A-Changin’
Things have changed in recent years, with farmers and distributors trying to improve their storage and processing practices. Jerome Penafort, founder and CEO of homegrown chocolate brand Mr. Bucket (which recently opened a chocolate factory and lifestyle space in Dempsey Hill), swears by Asian cacao even though he is aware of the challenges. Unlike Europe, he says, cacao is not a traditional crop grown in Asia. It’s why many companies do not invest as much to farm quality cacao.
Still, he wants people to know that Asia can produce exceptional cacao. He says “All of our chocolates are made using cacao sourced only within Asia. We work directly with the cacao farms. This ensures that we are able to maintain the quality of the cacao while building an honest relationship with every farmer.” He and his chocolatiers take the beans from specific origins – whether it’s a family-owned cacao plantation in Pahang, or a collection of smallholder farmers in the Philippines – and put them through a “vigorous R&D process”, before creating a chocolate that best showcases the beans’ flavour notes.
Penafort hopes Mr. Bucket Chocolaterie will be a platform for more consumers to be exposed to Asian cacao farms and farmers. “Our goal is to continue leading the way for Asian chocolate, combining education and experience to foster everyday conversations that revolve around the exciting world of chocolate, and cultivate a deeper appreciation for cacao grown in Asia,” he says.