Putting in the Wo(r)k

The vast world of Chinese cuisine can sometimes look like an intimidating art form. These six key techniques will help budding master chefs to build a strong foundation.

Stir-frying

This high-heat quick cooking method is popular for its simplicity. No matter which Chinese region you visit, you are bound to encounter at least one beloved stir-fried dish. Sichuanese Kung Pao Chicken, Cantonese-style fried rice and sweet and sour pork, Fujian’s oyster omelettes, and the ubiquitous tomato scrambled eggs... the list goes on.

Wok hei or ‘wok’s breath’ is the unmistakable slight char and smokiness that many say is a sign of a good stir-fry. Contrary to popular belief, it is not difficult to develop dishes with wok hei in a home kitchen, and you do not need a culinary master’s seasoned wok either. Simply follow the rule of ‘hot wok, cold oil’ – dry-heat the wok to about 300-350°C, so as to ensure that when oil is added in, it instantly smokes up. That smoke is what imparts food with copius wok hei.  Ensure that the sides of the wok are heated as well rather than just the base. The increased heated surface area allows for more development of char when stir-frying.

Steaming

 

This technique produces gentle-tasting Chinese dishes with juicy soft textures. Steaming is considered to be the healthiest cooking method as it retains nutrients and preserves the natural flavours of food. This is best seen in classic dishes like whole steamed fish and smooth egg custard. Without the steaming, technique, millions of diners would not be able to enjoy their mid-morning yum cha ritual, complete with carts filled to the brim with har gao, char siew baos and siew mai.

Even heat distribution determines whether dim sum items like steamed custard buns turn out fluffy or clumpy. Steam has to be well-circulated over the entire surface area of the food so be sure to space the ingredients evenly within the steamer to avoid mushy textures. Leaving the lid on prevents steam from escaping, while constantly reopening it causes dips in temperature. However, that may make it hard to gauge if the food is cooked. For fish and meats, it’s easy to tell their doneness by sight. If the liquid that surrounds the fish or meat resembles clear soup rather than chalky water, it’s good to go, says Chinese chef Sebastian Goh of Yellow Pot, Six Senses Duxton.

Achieving smooth and velvety Chinese steamed eggs is a different feat altogether. It’s notoriously difficult to get the perfect custard, but there are ways to make things easier. Firstly, ensure that the water is not on a hard boil but a light simmer. Too high of a boil will result in a honeycomb like structure within the custard rather than a homogenous texture. Ideally, the surface of the egg should be completely smooth without any pockmarks. This can be done by either cling wrapping the surface of the custard before steaming, or using a chopstick to open a small gap between the lid and pot. The latter allows steam to escape, and prevents condensation from forming on the lid – which would drip down and cause indentations on the surface.

Pickling

 

Pickling is one of the oldest Chinese cooking techniques, and these morsels of preserved fruits and vegetables remain mainstays of the Chinese gastronomy scene. They add depth of flavour and are used in a variety of settings, including dishes like Sichuan suan cai boiled fish, preserved vegetable and duck soup and as appetisers for a Chinese banquet. They are wonderful as accompaniments to plain porridge, helping to flavour the otherwise humble meal.

Chinese pickles are mainly split into two different styles: salt pickled and marinated pickles. The former uses mainly salt to preserve the pickles over a prolonged period of time, while the latter uses a mixture of vinegar, sugar and salt as a quick marinade. No matter which style of pickle you choose, always remember that excess moisture is the number one reason for failed pickles. Proper salting of the ingredients ensures that most of the water content is taken out, allowing for the marinade or pickling liquid to penetrate deeper into the pickles.

Those looking for a true Chinese pickling experience should purchase a traditional Chinese pickling crock. These glass or porcelain vessels can be easily found online or at Chinese hardware stores; the unique moat system ensures an air-tight water seal. This keeps oxygen out while allowing carbon dioxide, a by-product of natural fermentation, to escape. This style of pickling develops the most amount of flavour, thanks to the hard work of naturally occurring yeast and lactobacillus bacteria. Should you find the pickling liquid to be developing a white film on its surface, don’t throw it out just yet! This is not mold or a sign of contamination, but a SCOBY (symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast). It signifies that the fermentation process is healthy and maximum flavour is being produced.

Double-boiling

 

Nothing quite completes a hearty home-cooked Chinese meal like a big pot of double-boiled soup, a specialty of the Cantonese populace. Despite the name, these soups are not boiled twice but are cooked in ceramic vessels that are heated via indirect heat. The vessel must be sealed properly, usually by parchment paper or plastic wrap before it’s closed by a cover to ensure minimal evaporation. This results in a tastier and more nourishing broth.

The key to Cantonese-style double boiled soups is the slow-fire method. The gentle heat does not overwork the ingredients, and nutrients are not denatured as a result. Use an initial high temperature boil to kick-start the process before turning it down low and cooking for a minimum of two to three hours. Using this technique, along with thorough rinsing of meat to remove scum and blood, will ensure your soup remains crystal clear.

The cornerstone of quality double-boiled soups is, of course, the ingredients. These range from meats and vegetables for a shorter cooking time, to premium ingredients like abalone and sea cucumber that require a longer boil. It’s all about the layering of flavours; consider what kind of flavour profile each ingredient brings to the table and use that as a guideline to craft the taste of the soup. Start with the base: this often stems from the meat used, be it chicken, pork or duck; alternatively dried ingredients like conpoy and anchovies can also add a layer of umami. Fresh vegetables usually come next, from nutrient dense, peppery watercress, to the sweetness of wintermelon or carrots. Lastly, dried herbs and fruits can be used as the final layer of flavour. These include and are not limited to dried tangerine peels which add a distinct citrusy bitterness; hawthorn berries for tartness; wolfberries for sweetness; and dried angelica root for a bitter earthiness.

Braising

The Chinese method of braising shares many similar fundamentals to French braising: meat is cooked in a flavourful liquid over low temperature for a prolonged period of time, yielding fork-tender textures and a flavour-packed sauce. The delicate balance of meat to well-rendered fat makes this technique a favourite for meats like pork belly and duck, resulting in signature dishes like red braised pork and braised duck. 

The difference, however, comes in how the flavour of the braise is developed. French braises are highly reliant on the creation of fond (brown bits stuck to the bottom of the pan when searing meat), while the secret to Chinese braises comes from the usage of master stock. A good flavour base to start your master stock is with any leftover bones you can get your hands on – especially pork and chicken – along with pork fat and skin to add much needed collagen.

Another way that Chinese chefs develop flavour in braises is something that home cooks often miss. Once the stock is added to the meat, most tend to reduce the heat to a simmer immediately, for fear of burning the dish. Executive culinary director of mìmì at The Riverhouse, Daniel Koh, insists on leaving the braise on a high heat for a good five minutes before reducing the flame to a gentle simmer, as the heat helps to coax out more flavour from the meat.

Roasting

Crisp Peking duck and suckling pig, deeply caramelised char siew and juicy roast chickens are headliners of this style of cooking, and snaking queues in front of famous stores like Kay Lee Roast Meat in Singapore and Joy Hing’s Roasted Meat in Hong Kong are testament to their popularity. Unlike Western style roasts, the Chinese roasting technique deliberately reduces moisture content as much as possible in order to achieve crispier skin. The key step is to dry out the skin, which most do by leaving the meat unwrapped in the refrigerator (though some condensation may form), chef Jacky Tang of Grand Shanghai Restaurant recommends hanging the meat in an enclosed room with a constant, blowing fan. 

Marinades are another way to add another dimension of flavour to your favourite roasts. While there are traditional recipes for char siew and roast pork, crafting your own flavour combinations can be part of the fun too. As a rule, find a balance between the sweet, salty and sour components. Acids such as pineapple or lemon juice act as a natural tenderiser and will not alter the flavour too much, unlike soda powder.

For pork belly roasts like char siew and siew yoke, a good meat to fat ratio is essential. Pork belly that’s too lean will result in a stringy texture, and too many layers of fat in the belly may result in a overly cloying roast. The perfect ratio? 70 percent lean to 30 percent fat. Roasting at a high temperature may be intimidating to beginner cooks, but modern ovens with acute temperature settings will help reduce the margin of error. A favourite of contemporary chefs is to cook char siew sous vide for around two hours before a quick trip to a searing hot oven to crisp up and caramelise the exterior.