Head down to Palais Renaissance for a dose of indulgence at the newly opened Caviar restaurant
The dark orbs of caviar whisper luxury, prestige, and rarity, once reserved for the plates of royalty. Not so much, it seems. With the recent influx of ethically farmed roe flooding the markets, sturgeon roe (caviar) is widely available to chefs and gourmands alike, open to experimenting with caviar in new ways.
Caviar, the latest brainwave of restaurant Jason Ong, brings the haute cuisine delicacy to the fore. Being a premium seafood supplier, the selection of roe is wide-ranging – from Beluga to sturia oscietra from France, Polanco from Uruguay, and China’s most expensive Kaluga.
Ong also seems to have a penchant for conspicuous names, as seen in his first restaurant, Uni Gallery, which specialises in sea urchins. At Caviar, the name’s simplicity beckons the roe connoisseurs, although the directness may well be a deterrent for virgin palates. Fear not, this is a welcoming space located at the basement level of Palais Renaissance with a contemporary inviting design and a young dynamic team.
There is no headlining chef at the helm. Instead, 27-year-old chef Karleen Kasim of Cure Concepts and Naeum, helms the joint with pastry chef Demi Yong of Elephant Room on her side.
“Caviar is, without doubt, one of the finest luxury foods,” says Kasim. “We’re keen to maintain its exclusivity by balancing it only with ingredients that showcase its incredible flavour.”
A caviar tasting platter ($95) makes a fine introduction to four of the eight varieties on offer – Sturia Oscietra, Polanco Oscietra Grand Reserve, 8Gems Superior Oscietra, Magnus Opus Creme de la Creme Kaluga.
While the caviar selection is available a la carte (ranging from $90-$450 for 30g), lunch and dinner are neatly tiered in five or nine-course menus. The highlights of the meal include Botan Ebi: a prawn tartare decked with finely shaved slices of water chestnut and crowned with two styles of Caviar – Kaluga Kaluga and Kaluga Queen. The creamy buttermilk and dill sauce adds tang to the dish, and the fried Botan Ebi head adds the textural crunch.
In contrast, the Uni Pasta is a creamy smooth and silky pasta, rich in umami and served with a sun-kissed orange sauce topped off with, you guessed it, caviar. With Westholme wagyu, the roe offers a stark and inviting contrast. We felt the chef could go beyond the homely sides of a creamy mash and grilled asparagus heads.
The pastry chef duo delivers a dose of excellence at the tail end of the degustation menu. The soaked Clementine cake served with a dollop of crèma Catalana is sublime. We also savoured a taste of the signature’s sake lees ice cream served with yet another helping of caviar. The savoury-sweet ice cream flavour is all the rage in Japan, and we loved the interplay of flavours. The salinity of Polanco Siberian Reserve roe tends to fight with the umami notes of the sake kasu and we would love an option to pair with the creamier kaluga. Form the petit four selection, the financier and the single origin chocolate truffle delivered a lasting impression.
The accompanying Champagnes and wines kept pace with the menu, once or twice falling to simplistic choices like De Bortoli Noble One Botrytis Semillon and a Zenato Amarone. Sommelier Rahul Gaur is rethinking the offerings, so expect some exciting choices by the glass soon. Alternatively, a pairing flight with Blue Label whisky is also on offer.
Caviar is at 390 Orchard Road, #B1-06-07, Palais Renaissance, Singapore 238871