From a small walled plot in the village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger comes the ponderous, yet lithe 2006 vintage. As with all Clos du Mesnil, the highest expression of Chardonnay from the house, the initial impression is tightly wound, though it soon unfurls delicate white fruits on thenose, and incredibly concentrated layers of brioche and lemon pith, with a hint of sweetness and spice.