Chef Carles Abellán, founder of Tapas,24 Barcelona brings the authentic, convivial Spanish lifestyle and his love of tapas to Singapore. Epicure caught up with him during his first visit to our shores.
Tapas,24 Singapore by chef Carles Abellán of La Barra de Carles Abellán and El Bulli fame is his first venture into Asia. Abellán is famous for revolutionizing the modern day tapas culture with his “designer tapas” creations such as Ensaladilla Rusa with Olives, his signature traditional potato salad tapas.
He defines himself as a man who’s happiest when propping up a bar because tapas is in his DNA, and it’s the most traditional bars and tapas that are his main source of inspiration. Abellán also owns and operates three other Tapas,24 outlets in Spain (two in Barcelona and one on Formentera, which is part of the Balearic Islands).
Born in Sabadell, Catalonia in 1963, a young 20-yearold Abellán worked at Els Pescadors, a restaurant in Prim square in the Poblenou district of Barcelona while studying simultaneously at the then-new School of Catering and Hospitality in Barcelona. He then gained experience at other top restaurants in the city including L’Odissea and Hotel Melia.
At the end of it all, Abellán signed up to be a trainee at El Bulli in 1984, and what was originally supposed to be just a fortnight stint, turned out to be a six-year-long love affair. Abellán continued working at other restaurants developed under the El Bulli concept, and worked a total of 15 years with the group.
Following a three-year stint in Seville where he headed the El Bulli Hacienda de Benazuza, Abellán changed the tapas scene forever in 2001 with the opening of his first restaurant Comerç 24. Dubbed a “glocal” restaurant, Comerç 24 was where traditional, local Barcelonian tapas integrated seamlessly with Mexican, Italian, Asian and other international flavours. It soon became Barcelona’s most popular restaurant within 15 days of its opening.
In 2007, Abellán launched Tapas,24 in the hip Paseo de Gracia in Barcelona, still reputed to be one of the most popular tapas bars in town. And the rest they say is history as the chef opened more restaurants before finally choosing Singapore to be his first international outpost.
Tapas,24 Singapore, located along the breezy waterfront at Robertson Quay, is a buzzy social dining space decked out in bright primary hues that capture the lively spirit of the original outlet. Opened in 2021 in partnership with L’Angélus Group, it is where authentic tapas dishes, classic Spanish cocktails, wines and sangrias are served under the watchful eye of Abellán’s protege, chef Carolina Garcia Santamaria. We chatted with Abellán about his love for tapas during his recent trip to Singapore in February.
What made you stay at El Bulli for six years instead of the two weeks as planned?
I was inspired by my mentor and legend Ferran Adrià who really motivated me and gave me room to grow beyond just being a chef, with the opportunity to manage a team both in the kitchen and in front of house. It was also at El Bulli that cuisine and life truly became one for me.
What makes you passionate about cooking?
Growing up, I was always surrounded by food at home from a very young age, and found my calling in the kitchen. With my mother’s encouragement, I began my culinary journey at 22, when I enrolled in the School of Catering and Hospitality in Barcelona. Since then, cooking has been more than just a career for me, and I strive to bring joy, positivity and memorable experiences through my food.
My heart, soul and energy go into my cooking, and I hope to always delight with a unique experience through my food while keeping true to the foundations of Spanish culture. The very soul of my restaurant lies in the organised disorder of tapas enjoyment, and my menus represent my journey so far, incorporating unique ingredients and unexpected pairings.
Why is tapas so important to the fabric of Spanish culture?
Tapas showcase the different way of eating by the Spanish, where the tables are always full of dishes for sharing, and people dine in an ambience that is fun, friendly and above all, full of life. The enjoyment of tapas has become even more poignant now that we need to re-establish ties again after the prolonged pandemic. The convivial casual nature of tapas allows us to connect or reconnect easily.
I am so passionate about the tapas culture that I opened a restaurant in Catalonia where the concept of tapas was previously unheard of, unlike in other parts of Spain. Tapas is also one of our greatest exports. The small portions and lively dining style are really popular overseas, just like how well received the tapas culture has been in Singapore too.
Advice for young cooks in your kitchen?
Never stop fighting for your dreams, because everything is possible when done with passion.